1. Take your Servo mounting plates and press the bearings in by turning them upside-down on themselves on a flat surface. You should not need loctite, they are press fit. The countersunk mount is the top mount.
Screw the #2 x 5/16" black screws into the mounts so they can form the threads before you mount the servos. It's a good idea to do this before you put the servo tower together.
As you can see the HS-56 mounts are a little different then the HS-65 mounts.
2. Assemble the Battery Plate, CCPM Base plate, and Motor plate like in the picture. Use the (4-40 x 1/4) screws. Position the blocks lined up on the plates then tighten them down snuggly. The countersunk holes in the CCPM base plate are facing down in the picture.
3. Install the Bottom Servo mount first to the CCPM base plate. Use the (SS 4-40 x 1/2) undercut Flat head screws, through the bottom side. Then install the Vertical Servo plate supports, with the center hole down. You can tighten these tighter because the screws are so long. It’s a good idea for having the servos in place more securely. Use a real screw driver, instead of the small align one.
The center hole on the vertical suppots go down onto the bottom plate.
4. Make sure the other end holes are towards the outside of the 120 degree layout for the top servo plate. Also when tightening make sure the vertical servo plate supports are parallel like in the right picture. This is to ensure proper servo mounting and fit.
5. Get the servos ready for mounting. Use the large hole arms so the align ball link screws thread right in. Using the second hole from the center axis is the best at 13mm. The ball link goes on the outside of the arm. For both the 56 and 65 servos. You can use a M2 nut on the back if you it makes you feel better.
6. Install the servos with the arms screwed on at the 50% of rotation position. The Arms will be Horizontal at 0 degrees pitch. So have your transmitter at 50% or 0 pitch with the Arms at their mid position on the servo.
Use The SS (2# x 1/4" or 5/16") sheet metal screws supplied to mount the servos. The HS-65 servos use 2 screws per servo, instead of the 4 screws per servo on the HS-56’s.
Use the center hole for mounting with the HS-65’s. Remember the Servo mounting plates for the HS-65’s are different. All servos should line up with there sides on the side of the mounting plates. As shown in the pictures below.
You will need to trim the left servo arm end off so the end of the servo arm won’t hit the side plate holding tab.
HS-56 servos mounted
HS-65 servos mounted
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7. Install the Swash guide to the rear multi-hole mount. Use 2 of the (4-40 X 5/16) screws. The mount flips over for different distances of the swash to guide plate. Normally if using HS-56 servos mount the swash guide to the flat side. If using HS-65 servos mount the swash guide to the larger side. Make sure that the swash guide is perpendicular with the mounting block then tighten the screws.
When mounting the swash guide, the HS-56 position makes the guide closer to the swash plate. You can try this with the HS-65's to see if it fits in the closer position. This can vary, depending on what swash plate you have.
8. Guide pulley setup: All kits before 1-15-2007
Assemble the tail belt guide pulleys to the back of the CCPM base plate. Use the (M2 x 16mm) screws, (2) M2 nuts, the steel standoffs and 2 to 4 washers. Make sure the larger opening of the guide pulley is facing down at the screw head. Use two washers for the left guide pulley spacing. This is because the belt tends to ride lower on the left pulley because of the belt twisting in the boom. This is the normal height, but you can space them differently depending on your needs.
Guide bearing setup: All kits after 2-1-2007
1. Tighten 1 of the M2 nuts snuggly against 3 of the bearings using the M2 x 20 screw.
The screws are a Grade 12
Assemble the Guide bearing setup as shown in the picture below. You can leave the washers out if you want.
Kits Before 2-15-2007 have AR1042, AR1033, and 2x7x3mm bearings.
Kits After 2-20-2007 have AR1042-B, AR1033-B and 2x6x3mm bearings.
9. End link adjustment. Use the supplied 24mm 0-80 stainless linkage rods for the 3 servos. Aligns 22-26mm will work with some adjustments if you want to use theirs. HS-56 servos are a 33-34mm distance. Swash at 0 Pitch, arms at 50% horizontal.
*Use NEW end links beacuase the thread pitch is different*
Take a drill bit or countersink to the end of the endlink to make it easier to screw in the linkage rod. They are pretty hard to get started. But they have a great hold!
10. One way bearing assembly: Using a vise is the best way to do this, with sockets or aligns tool. You can also use a C-clamp as a press.
1. Position the rounded end of the one-way bearing into the bottom, or concave part of the main pulley; so that you’re pressing the small socket against the flat end of the one way bearing. The small socket must be almost the size of the one way bearing or smaller. The back of the pulley must be supported at the center when pressing the bearing in. Do not support the pulley by the outer ridge or spokes.
You can use a hair dryer to heat up the pulleys before pressing them in.
2. The smaller Sub pulley is on the other side. Make sure both pulley center holes are lined up so the one-way bearing will be pressed in correctly. The screw holes in the sub pulley are larger then the screws so you can adjust things before pressing the bearing in. This is kinda of tricky getting all of these lined up. With the two black (2-56 x 3/8) screws slightly loose holding them together; press the one-way bearing equal with the inside face of the main pulley or just a hair further then the hole surface.
3. Once you have pressed the one way needle bearing into both the pulleys at the same time, then you can tighten the 2 screws very snuggly.
4. To check for the right distance of bearing placement, insert the one way bearing shaft and spacer ring. It should be 1mm to 1.5mm sticking out past the top flange on the sub pulley.
The end of the one way shaft housing should sit .002”-.005” MAX above the spacer collar.
11. Side piece screw layouts: KITS PURCHASED BEFORE 2-1-2007
KITS PURCHASED AFTER 2-20-2007
All the aluminum screws that fasten through the side plates into the mount blocks on the CCPM base plate are 5/16" long. Shown in picture below.
12. Canopy Arms and battery plate
When assembling the side pieces to the frame, put all the screws in slightly loose. Then when it’s together, tighten them all down. Do not over tighten the screws! They could strip!
13. Boom Clamps:
Use the M3x45mm screws and M3 lock nuts. Make sure you line up the boom clamps as shown in the picture below when you put them together. Large lightening holes lined up and pin holes lined up.
14. Motor mounting – You can use 2, 3, or even 4 mounting screws if you want.
15. Pulley line-up and Belt tension
Belt tension: should be about like the tail belt, but the main belt should not slip on the motor pulley. Remember that timing belts have almost no stretch to them. Most people have them too tight to start out and find that they have to loosen them. Keep an eye on the belt after a few flights to make sure it is not slipping or wearing. Adjust accordingly. Start out with 1/8" deflection pressing on the belt between the motor pulley and the main pulley. Do Not Lubricate the Main Belt.
16. 3rd bearing install
You can install the 3rd bearing plate during the build or after the build is done.
Durring the build: This way can be easier. All you do is attach the 3rd lower bearing setup to the motor plate. Like shown in the picture below. Putting in the (4) 2-56 x 5/16 screws from the underside then tighten snuggly. Be sure to have your belts in the frame, but do not have them tight or tensioned yet. Leave the side Frame peices screws slightly loose when joining the motor plate when putting the main shaft in and 3rd bearing. This way there is less load on the drive system so everything can get lined up. Then tighten the frame screws up.
After the build:
Slide the 3rd bearing assembly into position then up onto the shaft end. Then Slide the delrin spacer plate underneath. Last put the screws through and they thread into the bearing plate. Make sure your belts are loose when you do this. This way everything will get lined up right. A pair of needle nose pliers, or some tape on a stick should make it easier. Use the 2-56 x 5/16" screws to fasten the bearing plate.
There is a possibility that your one-way shaft housing end is slightly larger then the inner race of the lower bearing. You must then slightly sand the outside end with some fine sand paper. It is best to put the one-way shaft housing into a drill and spin it while you sand to get an even amount taken off. Do this till the one way shaft housing slides into the bearing snuggly. Be carefully not to round the end of the shaft housing. You want to check for this problem before you put the frame together!
17. Tail belt
Make sure you after you install the tail belt that the tail blades are turning counter-clockwise just like the stock Trex. Since the tail drive is 1 pulley to 1 pulley, the belt twists the opposite way when putting it on the pulley.
18. Landing gear install
Use the 4-40 x 1/4” aluminum anodized screws to fasten the component plate to the Landing gear mounts. Then mount to the Frame. The skids mount after so you can adjust the skids on the mounting holes to get the frame level.
19. Antenna tube
IF using the stock antenna tube, slide the tube through both front and rear mounts on either side.
20. Canopy new grommet hole position
Use your own discretion for the new mounting hole. I would recommend you placing the canopy on first when the frame is together and measuring also. For the X4E the horizontal distance is 35 to 36mm because the X4E is shorter in the nose.
