Accelerated RC

Last updated 02-23-2008

Hoss X4E Assembly Instructions

Please email me if you have any questions. I will be updating this manual randomly. Please refer to the X4 manual also.

* When assembling the frame sides; keep the screws slightly loose to make sure everything lines up correctly. Then tighten things up after.* Check out the main belt tension video from the link provided on the Downloads page.

*Loctite* I am personally not using loctite on anything. I tighten all the screws very tight. Don't worry you wont strip the fasteners or aluminum blocks. If you want to use loctite, be sure to use the preferred BLUE or RED loctite for the screws into aluminum. The only critical place if you are worried is the servo tower screws holding the servo tower together.
∙ Be sure to Clean the threads and surfaces with isopropyl alcohol, and only put loctite on a few threads at the end of the screw.
∙ You can use a little Green R48 on the main bearing holes for with the aluminum servo mounts if they seem like they need it.
∙ Check the parts and screws over by feeling them after a few flights. Always a good idea to do a flight check before you fly.

Parts and Hardware list is provided with the kits.

1. Servo tower assembly
2. Motor plate / lower bearing assembly
3. Battery tray assembly
4. Canopy arm assembly
5. One way bearing assembly
6. Side plate, pulley's, boom clamps, and belt installation
7. Belt tension
8. Servo linkages
9. Antenna Tube
10. Grounding for static

1. Servo Tower Assembly:

Screw the 3 different mounting braces to the CCPM base plate AR2033. Make sure you have the braces on the right side of the plate The counter sunk holes in the plate are facing down in the picture below. Make sure the Alumlinum mounting braces are mounted perpendicular on the plate. You made need to adjust the blocks slightly before tightening them completely.

Assemble the Guide bearing towers first as show in the picture below, tighten the M2 Nut against the bearings. Then attach the tail bearing guide towers to the plate assembly.

Servo Mounts: Press the 5x11x5 bearings into the servo mounts. They are press fit. If you are using the aluminum version make sure that you have the bearing lined up better when pressing it in. It should have a little bit of friction. Make sure the bearings are pressed all the way to the bottom of holes and are seated properly. You might have to take a hammer to the aluminum mounts and knock them down completely. Be sure to protect the finish with a paper towel or rag.

You can take the shaft and stick it through the bearing race and spin the bearing / plate. Watch to see if everything is right and not wobbly.

Next, assemble the delrin or aluminum servo mounts to the CCPM base plate. Use the 3 tower supports AR1047 for the Delrin mounts and AR2047 for use with the aluminum mounts. Do not over tighten the delrin mounts to the supports. Tighten them very snug though. If you tighten the delrin supports to tight, it can shift the main shaft alignment and that is bad. The aluminum supports you don't have to worry about.

Delrin version AR1065B or AR1056B, Aluminum version AR2065 or AR2056

2. Motor plate / lower bearing assembly: Assemble the lower bearing Holder (AR2061) and the lower bearings spacer (AR2062 x 2) as shown in the picture below. The flange of the bearing is in-between the holder and spacer. 4 washers are in-between also.

Assemble the AR2040 Auminum mounts to the plate as show in the picture. Make sure they are lined up perpendicular with the motor plate.

* Check the motor mounts slots to make sure the motor screws slide freely *

Optional Stiffener Plate

3. Battery Tray assembly: Use the M2.5 x 6 Flat head screws with the 1.5mm Hex Driver or key.

4. Canopy Arm assembly: You need to put the canopy arms on before you assemble the side frame pieces to the rest of the frame. I may be going with a machined canopy mount in the future instead of the screw and standoff. The canopy arms bolt to the outside of the frame side pieces.

5. One way bearing assembly: The best way to do this is with a press, but if you don't have a press you can use a vise or c-clamp. Even a hammer as a last resort. You can use a automotive socket or aligns tool to use between the bearing and device.

1. Position the rounded end of the one-way bearing into the bottom, or concave part of the main pulley; so that you’re pressing the small socket against the flat end of the one way bearing. The small socket must be almost the size of the one way bearing or smaller. The back of the pulley must be supported at the center when pressing the bearing in. Do not support the pulley by the outer ridge or spokes; you could warp the pulley. No matter what type of device your using always make sure the bearing is going in strait with the hole. Do not force the bearing if it is going in at a angle. You can use some Green R48 loctite on the pulley holes before pressing the bearing if things seem not very tight.

2. Press the one way bearing into the Main pulley first with around 2mm or so of the end of the bearing sticking out the backside.

3. Now put the small sub pulley on the back of the main pulley. You'll be able to press it onto the end of bearing sticking out. Line up the screw holes and put the screws in. Do not tighten the screws all the way. Keep them slightly loose before you press the bearing in all the way.

4. Once you have pressed the one way needle bearing into both the pulleys at the same time, then you can tighten the 2 screws very snuggly.

5. To check for the right distance of bearing placement, insert the one way bearing shaft and spacer ring. It should be 1mm to 1.5mm sticking out past the top flange on the sub pulley.

The end of the old version one way shaft housing should sit .002”-.005” MAX above the spacer collar.

New version Bearing sleeves/shaft housing and the Gold brass collar spacer fit exactly flush and will not need any adjustment. There should be no up and down play at all.

6. Side plate, pulley's, and belt installation:

Attach the side frame pieces to the CCPM base plate with the M2.5 x 6mm screw for the center brace (AR2046) and guide bearing mount (AR2042). M2.5 x 8 you use for the canopy arm to Front mount brace (AR2040 or AR2043) Keep these screws slightly loose until the motor plate is installed and the battery tray. You can put the AR2071 gyro mount or the AR2070 optional mount on, but you don't have to if you want to mount your gyro on the boom clamp.

Insert the main shaft and pulley set into the frame. Make sure both belts are in place but not tensioned. Then attach the boom clamps. Slide the motor plate through the front area where the battery Tray goes. Snap the motor plate into place onto the end of the main shaft and one way housing end. You want to wiggle the frame and get things lined up before you tighten the screws fully. Make sure there is no crazy friction on the main shaft.

Use the M3x45mm screws and M3 lock nuts on the boom clamps. Make sure you line up the boom clamps with the large lightening holes lined up across from eachother, and the pin holes are lined up.

V2 Version, please emailing me your results

Here is the side piece screw layout. Once the Frame has been all been tightened; that's when its time to tension the main belt and tail belt. Tensioning the belts after the frame is together ensures that the belts don't pull on the frame area's causing miss alignment of the 3 bearings, etc...

7. Pulley line-up and Belt tension

Belt tension: should be about like the tail belt, but the main belt should not slip on the motor pulley. Remember that timing belts have almost no stretch to them. Keep an eye on the belt after a few flights to make sure it is not slipping or wearing. Adjust accordingly. Start out with 1/8" deflection pressing on the belt between the motor pulley and the main pulley. Do Not Lubricate the Main Belt. Check out the belt tension video on the downloads page.

The Main Pulley tilting is normal on spin-up, its the "one" oneway bearing. If there was two bearings in there you would see around 50-75% less tilt. Even the Stock Trex gears tilt, you just dont notice it because your not pulling on the gear, your meshed pressing it.

Make sure your belt tension is correct so the pulley will smooth out and level out durring the high rpms. Proper tension = long belt life and the teeth going into the grooves properly. If your Belt is sliding in the grooves up and down excessively on the pulley durring throttle changes you may have the belt tension too tight or too lose. IT should only move around 1mm or less. I think Mine was moving about 0.5mm.

Another thing to check is pull up and down on the pulley, not tilting. Make sure you have almost no up and down play between the top of the one way sleeve and the collar. .005"

8. End link adjustment. Use the supplied 24mm 0-80 stainless linkage rods for the 3 servos. Aligns 22-26mm will work with some adjustments if you want to use theirs. HS-56 servos are a 33-34mm distance. Swash at 0 Pitch, arms at 50% horizontal.

*Use NEW end links beacuase the thread pitch is different*

Trim the left side servo arm because it may hit the side plate holding tab on the frame.

Take a drill bit or countersink to the end of the endlink to make it easier to screw in the linkage rod. They are pretty hard to get started. But they have a great hold!

9. Antenna tube

IF using the stock antenna tube, slide the tube through both front and rear mounts on either side.

10. Grounding for static: Most people have to ground the tail guide bearing towers or the CCPM base plate to the negative on the ESC to lipo connection. Static is being generated inside the tail boom from the tail belt. All the 450 size tail belt driven helicopters generate it. The different with the Hoss is the belt goes all the way around the main shafts sub pulley alowing the static to get to the servos or RX. The simple and 100% fix is to ground it.

First try grounding as shown in the picture below,

If that does not work; then ground the as show and also ground the two guide towers that guide the tail belt.

5% of people need to ground the boom itself.